Western Afghanistan Herat is home to the Italian and Spanish forces

With over 42 countries currently serving in Afghanistan, I was excited to visit RC West in Herat which is home to majority of the Italian and Spanish military forces. It was almost as if I had stepped off the plane in Naples, Italy as I was welcomed by the Italian Air Force, not to mention the VIP seat I had from Kabul to Herat...sat in the cockpit with the Italian pilots:) From the coffee breaks to the wonderful, authentic Italian meals, the only missing items were a glass of red wine, fine music and the ocean waves rolling in. Now the base is segregated by country: Spaniards on one side and the Italians on the other...but they do work together during the week. As I stepped over to the Spanish side of the base, there were mysteriously large metal containers that looked very similar to the containers used to brew beer. A brewery in Afghanistan? Could it be? Hopeful wishing but they ended up being used for water storage...or so they say. Other items of note included the wonderful tour I had of the city of Herat. I believe that Herat is more beautiful than Kabul b/c there are more trees, less smog in the air and the women dress in colorful burkas and scarves. During the tour of city, which included to Italian journalists, we visited a new Pediatric Hospital, the Herat Governor's office, a woman's detention center (more details to follow on this) and a holy mosque to speak to a religious mullah. The hospital was simply amazing, rooms large enough to give patients some privacy, equipment and medicene that can treat 100s of children at a time and a staff of caring Afghan and Intl Doctors, nurses and assistants. I'll expand on the women's detention center in a future blog.
By the end of this visit to Herat Province, I realized how challenging our mission is to support the Afghans. Challenges to include differing languages among the NATO nations, differing viewpoints on how each country views their military/civilian support to Afghanistan - many european countries tell their national publics that their soldiers are conducting "Peacekeeping" operations while others say, "Reconstruction and Development." Other challenges we face are the decentralized nature of our joint/global military and civilian presence in Afghanistan. Synchronization is vital to ensuring we are not duplicating efforts and to increase our ability to create a sustainable socio-economic environment for the current and future people of Afghanistan. Yet, we often see each country's defense department placing additional regulations on their nation's forces, thereby limiting their ability to fully support the counterinsurgency objectives of the commander of all forces in Afghanisan.
I'll expand on this in greater detail soon..take care all

Trying to catch up...

Working with GMIC has been great...see the picture of most of us at a social dinner with Afghan Media. The dinner gave us an opportunity to meet new journalists, share a good meal and enjoy outside of the workplace. Great meal...especially after a day of fasting!!

I also traveled to Jalalabad, Khost and Kandahar again in Aug/Sept 09. 99% of my travel in Afghanistan has been via helocopters or fixed wing aircraft. We only use ground transport for short trips b/c of IED threats on the roads.

Staci does find a little time to meet new people and relax. My new roomate, Capt Regina Gillis, is quite a character so we share plenty of laughs.

Buenos Noches for now.

Ramadan...new found respect

After almost a month of trying to practice the fasting ritual associated with Ramadan, I have only one thing to say..."Don't pass judgement on the resolve of Muslims." Ramadan lasts one month and it is practiced by Muslims around the world. Here in Afghanistan, Muslims fast from dawn to dusk, refraining from eating, drinking, smoking, swearing, sleeping and enjoying fun entertainment between the hours of 0430 - 1830. And boy is this tough! By 1400, you usually feel like your head is foggy, mouth is dry and it is very difficult to concentrate. Ramadan is a time of reflection, becoming closer to Allah through prayer and a time to practice good Muslim traditions that should be carried on throughout the year. I have a new found respect for my Muslim friends.
Other than being hungry during the day, I've continued my travels to conduct training and repairs on our media satellite antennas. This time, I traveled out to FOB Shanks...the most dangerous base I have yet to visit. The base sits a few clicks from the nearest town and unfortunately has rocket attacks that happen throughout the day and night. I'm safe, all is well but this is such a stressful life for the military members living on that base. The soldiers I worked with were great and seemed very positive. Just wish we could do more to prevent outsiders from staging attacks on the base. While there, I laced up my running shoes, something I try to do at every new base/location I visit, and went for a run on a trail around the base. At the top of the largest hill, I could see out into the distance, high arching mountains, grassy patches, mud homes and at least 3 well-paved roads leading from one city outward towards the mountainscape. At night I returned to the top of the hill and could see hundreds of stars in the sky and all was quiet. A peaceful quiet I hope most of these soldiers seek out when they can.
After my trip to FOB Shank in Loghar Province, I returned to Kabul feeling very lucky and a little guilty about the walls and guards we have around our base, a base surrounded by a city that, for the most part, are friendly and generous. The walls of our base send a message, one that says we want to protect you but want to protect ourselves from you as well. Not a good message to send.
Now on to my current day. I'd like to stay positive at this point but reality is sinking in fast. After 7 months of working with the Afghan Government Media Information Center (GMIC) as a teacher, mentor, co-worker and liaison, my command has decided to minimize my work at GMIC because of political reasons...they say it has nothing to do with the great work I've provided. So, I'm extremely deflated at this point. With a few months left here in Afghanistan, I now have to walk away from the best thing I have every contributed myself to. Improving the lives of others through education. I've put up a good fight as long as possible, but feel that what is happening to me is a clear example of why the US Military and Government will continue to fail at helping to build governance in Afghanistan. A shift in commanders brings new, sometimes damaging changes to current processes...many times based upon the, "I must change things to show I have made a difference," instead of, "Let's closely observe what we currently have and make changes based upon true need." Instead of keeping me in my position until the beginning of January, I will move to a different base in mid-October and move ahead as the chief of our satellite system operations and will only have limited contact with the GMIC.
Well, I'll stay positive as much as possible and will try to make the last few months as productive as the last 8.
Ciao for now.

What the...

15 August is the day I realized that Afghanistan can be a tough place to live. This is the day my shower was interrupted by a large, "Kabooooom", I ran out in to the hallway and noticed the ceiling tiles were falling down, lights exploded and smoke in the air. What a freakin' morning! Well, a girl in the hallway noticed my terrycloth attire and recommended I put on more clothing before running out of the building to the bunker. After slipping on a t-shirt, shorts and flip flops, we were off to hide out in a metal bunker only 100 m or less from the explosion! Sirens, people yelling and lots of smoke filled the air as we sat quietly...or I sat quietly wondering why they attacked our base. Smirks and jokes started to come out from some of the people but all I wanted was silence...
Within an hour I returned to the building to put on my uniform and I found a sweet Afghan woman that cleans our building walking up and down crying in the hallway. A few of us decided to get her out of the damaged area so she grabbed her bag and I walked with her to a safe location on the other side of base. As we slowly left the building, we noticed emergency vehicles speeding past as well as footprints on the ground, outlined in blood. Both of us were a little shocked from the blast but we held hands all the way. I returned to the building soon after to help with clean up and the brevity of the explosion finally hit me pretty hard. We all worked quickly to clean up the damage so ladies could come back in to get their belongings. By evening we all had new rooms to sleep in and most of us were exhausted.
So, I'm okay now. After speaking with several local Afghans and asking about attacks and explosions, they told me that the best thing they can do is just keep living and praying they will not be close to the next blast. Most of my Afghan co-workers were not very concerned about the car bomb..almost as if they have become desensitized to the violence.
Has this bombing changed me? Yes. Do I still believe we should be here in Afghanistan? Definitely. Why? Because Afghans are human beings that deserve peace just like we have in the United States...nothing's ever perfect.
On 16 Aug 09, the sun came up as I glanced at the ceiling wondering what else I can do to help end the violence and hatred. No thoughts of leaving or giving up. My determination is stronger than ever.

Maui Bound

Almost 7 months since I left San Diego and now, it's time to decompress for a while....white beaches, pina coladas, the smell of coconut suntan lotion, no flack jackets, kevlars, 9 mil on my hip or bunkers....just the warmth of my daughters smile and the hand of my soulmate!
As I look back over the first half of my deployment in Afghanistan, there are a few key images and thoughts that come to mind:
1. As we drove in to Kabul for the first time, there was an Afghan man in a deserted field praying to Allah on a small, tattered rug...with a look of pure peace and contentment.
2. The wavering flags of 40 countries around the world who serve across Afghanistan...all in a circle in front of the HQ building on the ISAF Compound.
3. Buying my first hand-made bracelet from a 6 year old on the street and wondering how he learned English so well...
4. Seeing a cream-colored dog with his tail tucked lying on the road and realizing it was still alive although many Afghans would rather them not be.
5. Gathering at the Afghan Government Media Information Center (GMIC) to teach my first Public Relations class to over 38 Afghan Ministry trainees...this was the day I knew my relationship with Afghanistan would be for a lifetime.
6. Lifting off in a Blackhawk bound for Methar Lam, absorbing the beauty of the Afghan mountainscape, studying the mud homes that stretched for miles and miles, and capturing the smiles and wonderment of the 3 Afghan media experiencing a helicopter ride for the first time:)
7. Wonderful Afghan cuisine served every day at GMIC - jasmine rice, fresh chopped tomatoes, onions, green peppers, cabbage, and jalepenios; naan (flat bread but better), and always a group to eat with.
8. Seeing 6 large construction boxes with Satellite Antenna equipment inside and wondering how on earth will we be able to put this together...on the 3rd day, after a day of snow and an attack in the city of Kabul, a 2.4m Satellite Antenna was ready for action. Willpower and plenty of optimism will go a long way on the road to success!!
9. Walking in to a home filled with orphans, beautiful children living in poverty and without a family...learning new Dari words from them as they learned English from me, showing them a video camera for the first time, laughing as they took turns jump roping and counting - yak, do, sei, char, panj..., knowing that one day I want to be a mom to a child who doesn't have one.
10. Sitting in a focus group session with Afghan women and letting the tears glide down as they shared part of their lives, troubled, oppressed lives, with me. Eyes of despair yet tough as nails; hearts full of sorrow yet ready to give love; and hands aged and battered yet always there to provide to her children and husband.

As I take my leave and spend 2 weeks with my family, I want to share pictures and video and my words with as many people as possible. My work with the Afghan Ministries is developing and I want others to know the progress and feel the hope that I and many others feel.

Mahalo and Salam Aleikum

Racking up Afghanistan Sky Miles...

Finally back from my tour de Afghanistan! This time...Kabul to Kandahar to Bagram to Khost and back to Kabul! Midnight flight from Kabul to Kandahar proved to be quite an adventure considering I spent 2 hours conversing with Afghan Army soldiers, showing them pictures and video from my laptop, learning more Dari and noticing how normal they are when you get past the language barrier. Just a group of young men waiting for their plane so they can get home to visit their families. Upon our arrival to Kandahar, the temp was still at about 90 degrees F at 0130....but I had a big surprise awaiting - a large room with air conditioning and a queen sized bed! I thought I was seriouly delusional but, no, I could roll two or more times on the bed w/out falling out!
After doing my dirty work in Kandahar, it was off to Bagram for a layover before arriving in Khost, FOB Salerno. They offered Pizza Hut in the terminal but this was NOT like ours at home...it was like a chunk of nasty cheese on greasy bread..okay the grease is pretty much like home.
On to FOB Salerno...not sure if I was going to see the base b/c it is totally blacked out at night! But the stars in the sky were simply amazing! You could even see the milky way or maybe that was just clouds?? This base is within walking distance to the Pakistan border and unlike Kabul, it is not a spot that I could just walk or drive off base to meet with Afghans. Some of the Afghans that work on the base, live on the base b/c of the security risks and threats from the insurgents.
We were able to get both of their DVIDS Satellite Systems operational and even set up live to cover the U.S. Ambassador's press conference with the Agribusiness Development Team, Minister of Agriculture, Khost Provincial Governor and the Head of Agricultural Development at Khost University. What a great program they have here. Helping the Afghans learn how to improve their skills at farming, creating better irrigation flow and raising livestock. There are now 6 Agribusiness Development Teams in Afghanistan, with more to come in the future.
Back to Kabul on Thursday evening...and a hot shower was the best of the month!
Saturday I worked at GMIC and we decided to take several of the care packages over to a local orphanage...I miss little ones!!! They loved the writing tablets, blow pops, hair bands, and of course the jump ropes. Zobaida, a GMIC co-worker, has adopted one of the girls but she is only allowed to visit her and take her home one night a week. In the Afghan culture, adoption is frowned upon, meaning there are several orphanages filled with children who can't find a good home. The only way adoptions are accepted is if the child does not have any living relatives who claim to know the child. What a shame...hopefully this will change in the future but for now we have all fallen in love with these children and will return soon to bring more school supplies and sports equipment.
What a month...in a few days I'm off to Maui, HI and then to San Diego to see my family, my husband and daughter. How fortunate we are.

Rooftop in Kabul...and Jalalabad...and

I just love dancing on rooftops all across Afghanistan..yes, this has become a part of my official duties. Well, I don't do this right away, normally once I get a confirmed lock on two satellites orbiting the earth and my video reaches Atlanta, Georgia! Since my return from Vancouver, Canada, I've had the distinct pleasure of climbing onto 4 rooftops so far and I hope to climb on to several more before the year is out. There's something very calming about being out in the open, escaping the crunching of rocks under moving boots, gun fire at a distant range, Afghans working on digging or filling another hole. So I'm currently traveling around Afghanistan to all of our sites that have a Digital Video and Imagery Distribution System (DVIDS) to ensure their equipment functions properly and to train them on proper operating/repair procedures. Who woulda thought that English Lit. and Secondary Educ. major would be turning screws, troubleshooting software problems on a computer and enjoying every minute of it?
Other than jumping on planes and helos to get to different locales, I'm still enjoying meeting and training new and former students at GMIC. Some of the students who took my classes in Feb are now calling and emailing and telling us how much they appreciated the courses and are asking for additional classes! Luckily, I've helped GMIC recruit 13 additional military instructors who have helped to build our program. We have trained over 230 Afghans and hope to reach almost 1000 by the end of the year. I never imagined that someone would pay me to do what I do but I thank Allah every day that this program is available. We are helping the Afghans build their vocational skills and assisting them in learning how to communicate effectively with the public through the media.
As a surprise by the GMIC Staff, I was invited to speak at a Teacher's Appreciation Ceremony at a private school in Kabul. After the ceremony, we all cut a cake the size of a regular car tire - huge - and talked about the future of education in Afghanistan. What a great experience!

So much to do and so little time. Other items of note - Lightening Storms in Afghanistan are simply gorgeous, as are sunsets; tea time isn't about the tea, its about relationships; my Afghan friends love to fatten me up with their awesome food; happiness here in Kabul isn't as much about being happy with possessions as it is with being happy with yourself, your family and your friends. Salam Aleikum.